5,000 visits (in total) hardly compares with conquering Everest. In fact, it's scarce a mountain at all - maybe a Corbett, assuredly not a Munro. Ah, but in these flat desert lands, may we not value all the more every slight gradient, and savour with sharpened gratitude every small summit? And if we start our journey in such humble surroundings as Chalky's Bar, in the honest if shadowy company of
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